Complete installation instructions for Lattia SPC luxury vinyl flooring
Ensure you have the following tools ready before starting:
When working with Vinyl SPC, the tiles are joined to each other, not to the subfloor. This method is ideal for the click-fit system and we would recommend installing underlay beforehand.
SPC Luxury Vinyl Tiles - Feature a rigid core made from limestone, providing exceptional durability. These tiles use a click-joining system and include a 1mm IXPE underlay backing.
A & B Planks - These consist of two distinct pieces, an 'A' plank and a 'B' plank, which sides. This configuration is common in our parquet floors.
Our SPC luxury vinyl tiles come with a built-in underlay, ensuring waterproof protection and resistance to mildew, mould, rot, and bacteria. Ensure your subfloor is clean and smooth before laying your floor.
Parquet flooring encompasses a range of patterns created from blocks arranged in intricate designs. This guide focuses on the following styles:
Short planks are arranged in a staggered fashion to produce a distinctive zig-zag pattern.
Short planks are angled to converge in the centre, forming a pronounced central line resembling an arrow.
Blocks are intricately arranged in a square shape with detailed patterns adorning the interior.
Inspect your packs to ensure you're completely happy with everything.
Let the SPC floor acclimatise in the installation room for 24-48 hours.
Ensure you have a clean, dry, and level subfloor before installation.
Arrange boards to achieve your desired pattern and effect.
Make installing your floor the last thing you do in your renovation.
After your flooring has been delivered, inspect your packs to ensure you're completely happy with everything.
Our wood-effect SPC flooring offers natural colour variation between planks and batches. These variations help create colour contrasts and deliver a more natural look.
Allow the SPC floor to acclimatise in the installation room for 24 - 48 hours.
You should keep the packs horizontal with equal weight distribution.
Make sure your room temperature is between 20°C - 21°C and ensure there is no exposure to extreme elements.
For underfloor heating, you should gradually increase the temperature as per your heating supplier's guidance - this helps get the floor more familiar with the heat.
Before laying the new floor, remove any existing flooring and ensure you have a clean, dry, and level subfloor.
We recommend either a concrete or wooden subfloor.
To make sure your subfloor is dry use a moisture meter, especially where concrete is used.
Next, you'll need to install a damp-proof membrane to prevent any moisture reaching the boards.
Secure any subfloor screws or nails below the surface to avoid piercing the underlay.
Make sure to clear the floor of any old adhesive and debris left over from the previous floor.
Before you start installing the floor, look through the boards you have looking for natural grains, knots and shades deviations.
You can then use these boards as focal points, mixing the planks to achieve the desired effect you're looking for.
Think about how you want your parquet floor to look. Choose the direction and style of the pattern and how you want the eye to be drawn when you enter the room.
If you come across some planks you're not happy with, keep them for cutting or use them in hidden spots on your floor.
Make sure installing your floor is the last thing you do.
Another important tip is to work from top to bottom of your room to minimise risk of damage.
Avoid screwing heavy furniture directly into the floor.
Gluing the floor down with adhesive may be necessary for extra stability.
If you have a kitchen island, this can be installed on top of the floor as long as the subfloor is level. Don't screw the island feet directly into the floor.
Mark the centre line and add guide lines
Create expansion gaps along walls
Organize A and B planks into separate piles
Align with centre line and click into place
Measure and cut planks to fit edges
First things first, measure the longest side of the room (or the direction you've chosen) and mark the centre line by dividing that measurement in half. A chalk line will do the trick here. For accuracy, consider adding some extra lines: a horizontal one to ensure those perfect 90-degree angles, and some parallel guides to mark out where each plank will go.
Don't forget to place spacers along the walls to create a 2mm gap for expansion. If you'll be using underfloor heating with your floor, keep a bit more space - around 5mm.
Now, separate your A and B planks into their own piles. Each set makes up one strip, with an A and a B plank joined together, and more connected underneath.
Make sure the highest point of each strip lines up with that centre line you marked earlier. The herringbone design might seem a bit off-centre, due to the natural effect of the pattern, but don't worry, it'll look more professional once more planks are laid.
When you're ready to connect the planks, cover the end with an offcut or a bit of card, then give it a gentle tap with a rubber mallet until they fit snugly together. Click them into place, starting at a steep angle, then laying them flat once you hear that satisfying click. Repeat until all the planks are snug with no gaps.
Following the completion of the first row, link each plank to the previous row and the adjacent plank. Click each joint into the gap of the plank in front by starting at a high angle and applying gentle pressure. Upon hearing a click, lower it flat on the floor. Repeat this process to ensure all planks are connected tightly without any gaps.
To accommodate pipes, mark their positions on the board and drill a hole accordingly. Then, make angled cuts to form a wedge from the edge of the board to the hole. After fitting the board around the pipe, reattach the wedge with glue behind the pipe to create a seamless look.
Start by removing the door from the frame. Align an offcut of flooring with a threshold bar to ensure it fits underneath the architrave. If necessary, trim the bottom of the architrave to the correct height using a handsaw and chisel. Also, consider trimming the bottom of the door before refitting it.
Use matching beading and thresholds to cover expansion gaps and seamlessly blend the new floors with existing walls. Avoid attaching trims directly to the flooring, as it may affect the expansion gaps.
Keep spare planks or cuttings for potential repairs in the future.
If the expansion gap is too large and the skirting or moulding doesn't cover it, cut strips from spare floorboards using a handsaw. Glue these strips into place to cover the gap.
For technical support or additional questions about your Lattia flooring installation, please visit lattia.co.uk or contact our customer service team.